Gasherbrum II Expedition Update: 7th - 15th June 2004
by Lindley Zerbe

Skardu, 7th June 2004:
We arrived in Skardu at 11:30am, with a planeful of local Pakistanis and several other mountaineering expeditions, from Austria, Spain, Colombia, and the US. After securing our gear, we headed off to meet our high altitude porters and Pakistani mountain guides, Rajab and Meherban Shah. We discussed the climb ahead over lunch, with a spectacular view of the famous Indus River, fed by the Baltoro Glacier. An instant rapport developed between our support climbers and the team. After lunch, we made our way in 4 wheel drive jeeps to our hotel, Shangri La. After our final night in civilization, we made our way to Askhole through several small mountain villages and on a narrow mountain road placed precariously on the edge of the steep valley wall.

Askole, 8th June 2004:
We left Skardu for our five hour jeep drive to Askole. The drive was very precarious, winding up the steep sides of an enormous valley holding an equally immense river, the Indus, fed by the glaciers of the Karakoram. We arrived at Askole at 5pm, and immediately were greeted by our expedition staff. We then set up camp and got some good rest before moving on to our next camp Johla.

Johla, 9th June 2004:
The trek to Johla was marked by the intense heat of this desert climate and accompanying dust and rugged terrain. We trekked for 8 hours through parched lands and over unstable glacial moraine to reach this camp. Johla gave the team their first view of a modernized Pakistani campsite with futuristic looking toilets, rounded grey porto-poties with black circular windows and venting pipes dotting the camp. After a short, hot and dusty rest at Johla, we head out for Paiyu, where we would spend one day in rest.

Paiyu, 10th, 11th June 2004:
The trek to Paiyu was more pleasant because of the cloudy skies. Upon reaching the camp, the team mingled with a host of other teams from various nations. Several of the teams, like us, were heading for GII, with the remaining teams were K2 bound. After a hearty meal of fresh beef, mutton, chapatti and various other Pakistani delights, we went to bed, reading ourselves for an acclimatization hike on our “rest” day.
The acclimatization hike the next day exposed the team to intense heat and considerable elevation gain (400m). The hike was on the steep and unstable slopes of Paiyu, a formidable mountain. During this hike, we got our first view of one of the more magnificent peaks in the Karakoram, broad peak.

Urdukas, 12th June 2004:
The trek to Urdukas seemed never ending. The walk was extremely hot, and took us over undulating moraine. It was grueling. After 8 hours, the team finally lumbered into camp, tired, dehydrated and some feeling quite sick. Urdukas was the last modernized campsite. After a rushed dinner and a short night’s rest, we set off for Goro II.

Goro II, 13th June 2004:
The trek to Goro II was spectacular, over weakly undulating moraine, marked by ice towers sprouting from the ground and glacial rivers, light blue flowing over the ice. After five hours of trekking, we arrived at Goro II, a picturesque campsite set squarely on the massive Baltoro glacier. At Goro II, we established first contact with our expedition directors, and our loved ones back in Singapore through our satellite communications equipment.

Concordia, 14th June 2004:
The trek to Concordia was another day of fire and ice, with solid ice mixed with rock underfoot and fiery heat from a strong sun overhead. After five hours of trekking, we came to the campsite, in full view of K2 and Broad Peak. After a few hours rest baking in the hot sun, we witnessed a Karakoram trek tradition, the slaughtering of a goat. It was the first of two goats headed for our dinner plates and was a sobering affair. The team certainly didn’t enjoy the life giving meat as much as if we were left ignorant of the brutality of the slaughter. But then again, the high energy and nutrient content of the meat would help the team maintain strength on the long trekking days to come.

Shama, 15th June 2004:
The trek to Shama was very pleasant as we moved our way up the glacier fed by a host of large mountains, including our destination peak, GII. The short trek to Shama gave the team enough time to check and sort the gear, before heading up the GII base camp.

continue > 16th - 22nd June 2004