ABC, 5th September 2004:
A well deserved rest day at ABC, as the team prepares to go up the mountain the next day, for their third and final acclimatization cycle with the goal of reaching Camp three at a height of 7300m.

ABC to Camp 1, 6th September 2004:
The morning was filled with a spiritual air, as the Sherpas conducted a Puja to ask the mountain gods for safety during the impending climb. Fresh juniper branches burned to one side, as a rock altar was set up in full view of Cho Oyu. The Sherpas chanted Tibetan prayers while the team sat in silence around the altar, sometimes throwing rice as an offering to the mountain gods. The ceremony lasted for 90 minutes, during hich long strands of colorful prayer flags were connected from the altar to points at the camp’s perimeter of the camp’s area. The result was incredible, splashing the campsite with an array of colors.

Following the ceremony, we left for the final acclimatization cycle, with our first stop being camp 1.

Camp 1 to Camp 2, 7th September 2004:
Our climb to Camp 2 began at 3:00 am with the team members boiling water and preparing breakfast. After making the necessary preparations: packing our bags with food, gas canisters and extra clothing, the team met the subzero 5:00 am air and set out up the ridgeline on the path to camp 2. We staggered the departure times of the two 3-man rope teams to ease the bottleneck that occurs at the icefall. The first rope team left at 5:00 am while the second left an hour later at 6:00 am. Both teams made it to the ice fall within 2-3 hours time.

The first part of the day went smoothly; we cleared the ice wall with better efficiency than the first time, clearly displaying better acclimatization on the mountain this time. As the team neared Camp 2 (6,800m), Kim Boon, our climbing advisor showed the initial signs of snow blindness, induced by the stronger sunlight of these high altitudes. The decision was unanimous that it would be most prudent for Kim Boon to descend the mountain, before risking further damage to his eyes.

The rest of the team and the expedition director, Dr. Robert Goh, continued on towards Camp 2 as two Sherpas assisted Kim Boon in his descent.

The team made up to Camp 2 in good time in the early afternoon, and proceeded to rest, hydrate, and refuel for the rest of the day.

Camp 2 to Camp 3 and back to Camp 1 and ABC, 8th September 2004:
It was another early start for the team, with the first rope team, consisting of Robert, Lindley and Khong Lean, leaving at 5.30am, with the second rope team, Yen Kai, Efung, and Ernest, leaving shortly after at 5:50am. Shaffique wasn’t feeling well that day, with a moderate cough and general fatigue and so opted to stay back at Camp 2.

The route from Camp 2 to Camp 3 was a long slow uphill with a ridge turning up to the right, terminating at Camp 3 after a short 30 minute walk further up the mountain through a snow field of moderate steepness. The extreme cold at 7,000m caused cold fingers for some of the team members; Khong Lean stopped at 7200m as his fingers were numb. He waited for the second rope team while warming his hands in his armpits and waiting for the sun to rise when it’d be warmer. Robert, Lindley, and two of our Sherpas, Dang Nurbu And Kami reached the camp in about 3.5 hours, with the rest of the team reaching Camp 3 within 4 hours, and proceeding back to Camp 2.

Though many of the team members had cold fingers on the way up, at Camp 2, after closer inspection, it became clear that Khong Lean’s fingers were in worse shape and it was decided that he should descend immediately back to ABC. He left, guided by a sherpa with EFung for company.

The Cho Oyu Icefall: an imposing obstacle at 6500m.

The view from camp 3 into Tibet.

Robert and Lindley at Camp 3.

Shaffique decided to stay at Camp 2 another night.

The next day, 9th September. 2004, Lindley, Yen Kai and Ernest made their way back to ABC. Shaffique, wo said eh was feeling much better, headed for Camp 3 with Robert and Kami Sherpa. From the telescope in ABC, it was noticed that Shaffique was making slow progress with irregular steps. About half way to Camp 3, Shaffique reported to ABC via his walkie that he had decided to abandon Camp 3 and descend. He was having respiratory problems and was moving very slowly. To help Shaffique, a Sherpa was sent up from Camp 1.

Eventually at mid afternoon, the Sherpa Mingma saw him just above Camp 2. On Arriva;l t the Camp, Mingma administered oxygen for about 15minutes and proceeded to help Shaffique to head for Camp 1.

Meanwhile, Kim Boon and Sherpa Karma happened to be at Camp 1 for Kim Boon’s own acclimatization cycle. Karma was thus sent up to aid in Shaffique’s descent. At Camp 1 Kim Boon administered drugs for suspecged HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema) and other symptoms of altitude sickness.

Discussions via walkie led to the decision to evacuted Shaffique down to ABC despite the late hour. With the two Sherpas helping Shaffique on oxygen and Kim Boon leading the way, they descended. Meanwhile four more Sherpas were sent up from ABC with headlamps to meet them, just in case more help was needed. Evenetually, the entire group arrived at ABC safe and sound at 10pm.

Once at ABC, Shaffique quickly felt much better. In a matter of hours, he went from an extremely fatigued and weary state to one in which he could joke again and provide the frequent smiles for which he is known.

ABC, 10th – 13th September 2004:
After obtaining professional medical advice from Singapore, it was decided that Shaffique and Khong Lean should descend the mountain and back to Kathmandu where they could receive proper treatment for their respective conditions.

We are pleased to report that they will recover fully and we look forward to training with them in Singapore before we set off for our final goal, Everest, in March of 2005.

The rest of the team are recovering well from the third and final acclimatization cycle and aim to leave for their summit attempt on the 15th of September. The mood at ABC is light, yet there is also intense excitement in preparing for the summit bid.

The team tests their oxygen equipment. There are two American systems provided by International Mountain Guides, both with a different fit, depending on whether the climber has a round or long face. Getting a perfect fit is essential, both to ensure no oxygen leakage and for comfort, as the team members will be sleeping and climbing in these masks for in excess of 12 hours