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Cho Oyu Expedition Update: 14th-20th September 2004
| NEWSFLASH! The NUS team of 4, Lindley Zerbe, Chow E-Fung, Teo Yen Kai and Ernest Quah, together with their 4 Sherpas, reached the summit of Cho Oyu on the morning of 18th September. This year is the fiftieth anniversary of the first ascent of Cho Oyu, and the team is officially the first team to meet summit success this season. |

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Cho Oyu presents a magnificent panoramic view from the summit, including
that of Everest. Also, notice the curvature of the earth as seen from 8201m. |
| The team would like to thank NUS for their unstinting support and belief in this project. We would also like to send heartfelt thanks to our family and friends for their constant encouragement and moral support. It has kept the team in high spirits throughout the expedition, through foul weather, extended climbing days and the physiological problems associated with high altitude.
The team would also like to dedicate this climb to their two team mates, Khong Lean and Shaffique, who had to leave the expedition due to altitude related illnesses. We certainly hope the two of them will recover fully and rejoin the team to climb on Mt. Everest next spring.
Team member’s reflections on the climb and successful summit: |
Lindley Zerbe, Team Leader:
"The team has put in two years of hard work and preparation to make this climb a success. To experience the spirit of mountaineering first-hand, the successful result of grueling hard work and determination, confirmed my belief in the profound worth of climbing. Seeing the world from 8000m, high above the clouds, at sunrise, was a miracle of nature… reaching the summit, pure joy."
Chow E-Fung, Co-leader:
"It was a marvelous feeling standing on top of Cho Oyu, and the reality of it has yet truly set in. I thank my fiancée for standing by me all this while, and her spirit was strong with me throughout this expedition."
Teo Yen Kai, Climber:
"I was so relieved to reach the summit. The mission has finally been accomplished after months of training and planning. We have finally done it!"
Quah Ernest, Climber:
"The disappointment in G2 and the two years of preparation is well worth it when you reach the summit. All thanks to our dear advisors who have sacrifice their time for this project. Wish us luck in Everest!"
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Lindley, Efung, and Ernest on the summit of Cho Oyu. Notice the cold weather gear: heavy down suits and mitts and oversized Everest boots. |
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On the road to Camp 2. |
The Route to the Summit
ABC to Camp 3, 15th – 17th September 2004:
The team proceeded from ABC to Camp 3 with few problems, having acclimatized to the high altitude during their previous three acclimatization cycles. Though the climbing was still exhausting, we reached each camp in considerably better time, shaving sometimes more than 1 hour off our previous times, and navigating through the terrain with more confidence and competence. There was an air of excitement among the team members, and a growing confidence and anticipation of a successful summit attempt with each ascent to a higher camp, and continual positive weather reports.
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Camp 3 to Summit of Cho Oyu, 17th - 18th September 2004:
After sleeping on supplementary oxygen for nearly five hours to recover some energy at the extreme altitude of 7500m, at 11:00pm on the 17th, the team woke up to eat an early breakfast and prepare to set off for their summit bid from Camp 3. The team started at 1.45am, when the temperature of the night was around minus 15 degrees Celsius, surely due to drop as we moved to increasing altitudes. The sky was clear, with the stars in sight: a perfect summit night for the team. The team started walking up the 30-degree snow slope, before they reached a granite rock band at 7600m. The team then ascended the rock band, with mixed snow, ice and rock with fixed ropes, an ascent of nearly 150m in elevation and the most exhausting section of the summit climb.
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| Our sherpas at the summit, taking summit pictures. From left to right, Kami, Mingma, Kharma and Ernest, one of the NUS climbers. |
| After the rock band, the snow slope increased to 45 degrees, and the team continued for another hour before reaching the summit slope of the mountain. The snow slope then increased another 15 degrees, presenting the team with a challenging 60-degree slope.
The team ploughed ahead, as they rose high above the clouds and surrounding mountains. It was a magical moment for everyone, as they occasionally paused in awe at the marvel of nature surrounding them, the sunrise viewed at 8000m.
It was 6.30am when the team reached the end of the steep slope, and started the one and a half our walk on the summit plain of Cho Oyu. They walked on, surely resembling beings from another planet in their down suits, oxygen masks, and thick down mitts and oversized boots, and approached what seemed to be the end of the gradually ascending undulating terrain. As they continued, Mt Everest, which could be seen from the true summit of Cho Oyu. The world’s highest peak appeared majestically in front of their eyes. Lindley, Efung and Earnest reached the summit of Cho Oyu at 7:12am, and hugs and tears were shared among the team. Yen Kai reached shortly after at 8:18am.
A brief celebration took place on the summit, and then the team proceeded back down as the weather started to turn for the worse, with increasing wind speed. The team made the long trip down to ABC just before night set in, finishing a tiring, but rewarding17-hour day.
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ABC, 19th – 20th September 2004:
Having reached the summit of Cho Oyu, the team is now recovering their health and fitness back in the comfort of ABC, with reading, enjoying the occasional movie, relaxing, and eating profusely. On the night of the 19th, the support climbers and climbing staff presented the team with a chocolate cake to celebrate. It was a wonderful moment. For now, the team will continue to recuperate in ABC. That is until we head out for some more training and preparation for Everest on an icefall near ABC! |

Post Summit Celebration: Left: Kami Sherpa and
Lindley cut the cake.
Right: Tashi Sherpa lightens the
mood and scares some people in the process
as
he sticks his head through one of the tent’s vent holes. |
continue > 21th - 27th September 2004
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