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Everest Base Camp, 14 May 2005:
Much of the day was spent discussing the summit strategy. First, the team members analysed the situation, members' strengths and weaknesses and how the team could be divided into two groups to best effects They then discussed their plan with the directors, whose input persuaded the members to make some adjustments to the plan. This exercise allowed the members to think through their own plan, and then learn from the directors and consider other factors they had not thought of.
After dinner, when the Sirdar dropped by the mess tent, he was informed of the plan and agreed to it.
The first team will comprise Lindley and Ernest. They will go up the mountain at the first summit window, which has yet to be determined.
The second group -- Khong Lean, Yen Kai and Stefen -- will go up during the second summit window, again yet to be determined.
This strategy will give us the best chances of success. Experience has shown that anything could happen during a summit bid which could jeopardise the climbers' ascent. Having a second group gives the team another chance at the summit.
Every effort will be put into these two groups making it to the top. However, should any of them need to turn back before the summit for whatever reason, we have enough oxygen for every member to go for a second summit bid. Like the airbags in a car, the oxygen is there just in case, but we hope we don't need to use it.
Everest Base Camp, 13 May 2005:
Highlight of the day was the call that members received from NUS President Prof Shih. As it turned out, he had encouraging words for each member.Everyone assured him that the team is strong and ready, excited at the prospect of standing on top of the world, and grateful to NUS for this opportunity.
The date for the summit has not been confirmed as the weather forecasts have been keeping us guessing. This uncertainty has been rather unsettling but everyone is learning to cope with it as part of the reality of mountaineering.
The day was significant also because the team's directors decided that the team would be divided into two groups, ascending on two different days. This is so that any unexpected incident on one of the summit days (such as an avalanche, or injury, or insufficient ropes near the top) would not affect the entire team's summit chance. The team agreed to the plan which was then discussed with the Sirdar.
Everest Base Camp, 11 May 2005:
The weather is keeping everyone on tender hooks. The Sherpas are waiting for a window of good weather to go up and fix the rope from Camp 4 to the balcony. Only when that is done, can climbers make a bid for the summit.
The team is also waiting. Patience is an important virtue.
Everest Base Camp, 10 May 2005:
After postponing the trek a couple of times, the team finally set off for Kala Pattar this morning. The plan was to trek towards Kala Pattar with a turn-around time of 11am. This will give the members a chance to exercise their bodies after many days at Base Camp.
It was a pleasant trek on a sunny though windy morning, over mostly moraine which seemed easier than when they first arrived at EBC. That's beause they were more acclimatised this time, and the trail was more established through frequent use by trekkers and other expedition groups.
Along the way, they met several other climbers from EBC who obviously had the same idea. They also met three Singaporean trekkers on their way to EBC.
At 10.50am, the group arrived outside Gorak Shep, just next to Kala Pattar and decided to turn around without going to Gorak Shep. That's because many unwell climbers come to this village to recover and the members wanted to avoid picking up any ailments.
It was a pleasant five-hour walk at a brisk pace. When they returned to EBC, who should be there but the three Singaporean trekkers. They had found their way to our camp and were invited to stay for lunch which delighted them no end. Strangers soon became fast friends with promises of meeting in Singapore.
Everest Base Camp, 9 May 2005:
The two Singaporean trekkers who stayed the night in our gear tent, were to have been evacuated by helicopter at 6am because they were feeling weak and had symptoms of AMS. But the chopper did not turn up. Lukla was completely clouded over and the pilot could not take off as he had to wait for clear weather. Word came only at noon that it would not be coming that day. The trekkers, feeling better from two days of good food and medical treatment, decided to trek down instead.
It was good to have visitors from Singapore, despite the less-than-happy circumstances. We are now waiting eagerly for the arrival of the Make It Real team in a few days' time.
Meanwhile, the team decided to postpone their planned trek to Kala Pattar to the following day.
Everest Base Camp, 8 May 2005:
We have been resting close to 2 weeks now, and frankly some of us are getting pretty restless. The weather hasn’t been kind to us for the last one week or so, and today is one of the first good-weather days for a long time.
We decided to practise on the Ice Fall, and mimic some of the conditions we will face on our summit bid. We went to a site with ice features about 10 metres high and 30 metres long 15 minutes away from the Base Camp, where Mark Tucker, one of the main guides in the American team, had set up ropes across the entire ice section.
Traversing an ice section which mimics
that
above the South Col |
The section approximates the conditions above the South Col, where there is a long traverse section with fixed rope attached horizontally. Many climbers are expected to go up that section on summit day, and competence and a level head are needed to cross it safely.
We started up the section with relative ease, using our crampons and ice axe to cross gingerly like a crab while safely clipped onto the fixed rope. We also discussed possible ways of dealing with problematic people and confusing situations such as when the ropes are not properly fixed to anchors. Personal judgment comes into play at such a high altitude, where communication and actions are not taken for granted.
We also fixed up a vertical section on the wall to mimic the conditions of the famous Hillary Steps, a 15m rock climb just below the summit of Everest.Ascending the rope at an altitude above the “the Death Zone”, even when simulated, was not easy, as we had our double boots, thick mittens, oxygen masks, goggles, full-weighted packs and down suits on, which restrict our vision and movement. We replicated these conditions as much as we could at the Ice Fall, and made sure that our current system of equipment arrangement worked.
The practice took the whole morning, and we returned to Base Camp in time for lunch. We were enjoying our fried rice and juice when two Singaporean trekkers arrived at our tent. They were our director Kim Boon’s friends. It was the first time that Singaporeans had come to visit our camp during this expedition, and we welcomed them warmly.
It was wonderful as they came with gifts and stories from Singapore. They also said they had been following our progress very closely through our website.
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