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Island Peak: Acclimatization Climb for Everest
28 March 2005
Watch a video clip of the team making their Island Peak summit climb
The team moved up to Island Peak from Lukla on an ambitious acclimatization plan, arriving at base camp (BC) after 10 days of trekking. When we arrived at BC, the team was well. A few members experienced slight headaches, but no other maladies.
The team went for the Island Peak acclimatization climb thinking it would be fairly easy and relaxed, and not very technical. We, however, found something much different. The weather was a concern; even in the relatively protected base camp, winds were high and it was clear from our view of Island Peak that the winds were even stronger up on the mountain.
The team members make their way up to
high camp through dusty and rocky terrain |
After spending a night at BC (5,100m), we set off at about lunchtime for high camp, 5,400m. Though our climb up was relatively wind free, as soon as we reached camp, the winds picked up with relentless force. The team was concerned that our tents might be flattened if the winds got much worse. The team made the trek up quickly and had a late lunch at 1:00 pm, then settled into our tents and packed our gear for the following morning’s early start. |
After a 4:00 pm dinner, the team quickly went to bed, anticipating waking up at 2:30 am. I woke up at 10:30 pm to go to the bathroom. The scene outside the tent was interesting. There was absolutely no wind, and only a thick mist and an eerie stillness. But it didn’t last for long. When the team awoke at 2:15 am, the wind was howling yet again.
We waited to see what the next move would be. Efung and I turned on our walkie talkie and awaited more information. Khong Lean was talking with Dorje, Kama, and Robert, discussing the next course of action. The wind was as strong as ever, blowing at 30 to 40 knots. All the team members thought that the decision to go or to stay at high camp could go either way. In the end, though, it was decided that we would wake up at 3:00 am, breakfast at 3:30 am and leave at 4:00 am.
Efung and I quickly went back to sleep. At 3:00 am, we woke and quickly gobbled down breakfast. Efung, Dorje and I led the way out of high camp, with the rest of the team following in pairs about 15 minutes later. The path was not easily found. It was an extremely dark night, so we just "felt" our way up the slope. The climbing was precarious and quite steep at times, with a cliff rising overhead. To avoid any possible rockfall injuries, we don helmets. I knew we were at a cliff’s edge, but the night was so dark, there was only a black abyss in the void. It was hard work keeping up with Dorje, who I think was moving quickly because he knew the terrain wasn’t safe.
After about one hour and 40 minutes the team reached the crampon point where we donned our crampons. The sun was just rising, illuminating the skies with vivid oranges and purples, casting a halo around Makalu in the distance. The moon was just visible above Ama Dablam with a multicoloured sky holding deep reds and purples.
The crampon point was about 5,700m high; we still had more than 400m of vertical ascent to go. Efung and I quickly put on our crampons and harnesses, roped up with Dorje in the lead. The rest followed shortly after. |
A stunning view of Ama Dablam (6,856m)
can be seen as the team nears the
crampon point
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As soon as we stepped off the short rock ridge connecting the crampon point to the glacier, we were met with a stunning view of the icefall, crevasses and all, with a rock ridge and vertical rock face in the distance. We slowly made our way up through the icefall. It was not long before we came upon our first crevasse crossing, requiring each team member to make a flying leap. After navigating the short icefall section, we came upon an immense snowfield.
The team passing through
the snowfield
before
scaling the steep
ice
face from
which
this
picture was taken
The NUS Everest team on the
summit of
Island Peak (6,189m)
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The scenery was spectacular. A high snowfield that broke off revealed an incredible snow-covered mountain ridge in the distance, lit by the rising sun. A shroud of fine ice particles haloed around Makalu in the distance. Soon after stepping onto the Island Peak icefall, we reached the steep fixed rope section, leading up to the summit ridge. From there, Dorje, Efung and I started jumaring our way up the steep slope, with the other team members crossing the snow field below.
Near the top, the turbulent winds from nearby Lhotse Peak started to pelt us with ice, snow, and blistering 40 knot gusts, forcing us to crouch down for shelter. Eventually we started our way up the summit ridge, with the summit within sight. After 40 cold and precarious minutes, Efung and I finally reached the summit on 28 March at 9:34am. It had taken us almost 5 hours and 30 minutes to move from high camp to the summit.
The summit was a small flat portion of snow and ice, which could hold a maximum of about 10 people. Our rope team stayed on top for nearly an hour while the other rope teams came in. As soon as the entire NUS team was up, we began taking all our summit shots. We then started making our way down the ridgeline and back towards high camp, mindful that most mountaineering accidents occur during descent.
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The way down was quite straightforward and the team made short order of it. After about 3 hours, we had arrived back at BC, having collected our goods from high camp on the way down. It was a long day, but certainly spectacular, revealing some of the most beautiful views the team members and I had ever witnessed in the mountains. After spending a night at BC to recuperate, we made our way back to Chuukung for lunch and then Dingboche, where we would spend the next few nights, recuperating from our experience on Island Peak.
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