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Everest Base Camp, 9 April 2005:
The team visited the medical post set up by the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA). This is a non-profit association providing medical support in popular tourist routes in Nepal, such as Manang on the Annapurna Circuit, Pheriche and Everest Base Camp. The Association has been present at Everest Base Camp since 2003, and is manned by international doctors on a voluntary basis (they don't get paid by HRA). During our visit, Dr Fred Declerck and Dr An Janssen, both from Belgium, were present to explain the type of medical facilities available and gave us an overview of the operations of the medical post. Prior to coming to Everest Base Camp, they were flying doctors in the Australian outback, specializing in administering medication in times of emergency. Interestingly, the couple is getting married on 11 April (Monday) at Everest Base Camp during their puja ceremony.
The team was impressed by their knowledge on high altitude medication, especially drugs to treat Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). For example, Diamox is used as a treatment for AMS rather than as a preventive drug. That's because it masks the symptoms of AMS and may cause the climber to be disillusioned that he is acclimatizing well and thus push harder than he should during the climb. Dexamethasone, another drug used to treat AMS, is administered in more serious conditions and warrants an immediate descent to lower altitude. Upon leaving, the doctors gave each of us a face mask that would moisten the air we breathe in, to help prevent the Khumbu cough, a common ailment that affects many climbers when they breathe in the cold, dry air.
The Japanese and Iranian teams were next on the visiting list. We met Mr. Honda, (no relation with the automobile company) an elderly looking man and the leader of the Japanese team. The Iranian team was more impressive, with
19 climbers, 12 men and 7 women. This is the first Muslim women team to climb Everest. During our visit, the climbers were not around so we spoke to the team physician, Dr M. Goudarzi. Since their national team climbed Everest in 1998, the Iranians have enjoyed the funding and support of their government for every mountaineering expedition.
With the route to Camp 2 now established, the team will be crossing the Khumbu Icefall for their first acclimatization trip to Camp 2 tomorrow (10 April). It has been windy today. Our fingers are crossed that it won't be worse tomorrow.
That's when we will encounter our first major obstacles: deep crevasses and ice seracs that could collapse on us any moment. Crossing the icefall will be a test of courage for any climber attempting Everest. Fortunately, the team has spent many hours of practice walking across ladders, which will be the main method of crossing the crevasses. According to our climbing Sherpas who have been to Camp 2, the widest crevasse is spanned by five 4-metre-long ladders tied end to end. I am sure there will be apprehensions among my team members, but I am confident that they will be able to conquer that fear and perform well on the icefall.
Personal Note: Khong Lean has dreamt of climbing Everest since 1995 and was a member of the inaugural Make It Real programme back in 2001. That his dream is now reality is almost unbelievable to him. But he remains deeply respectful of the mountains. "Climbers don't conquer Everest," he says. "What they conquer is their own fears, and that's what I see as most valuable."
Everest Base Camp, 8 April 2005:
After breakfast, expedition doctor, Nguk Hoon gave the team a quick revision of the cardio pulmonary resuscitation (CPR) procedure.
She went through the different situations in the mountains that would require CPR, and demonstrated the procedure in the middle of the dining tent,on her husband, expedition director Kim Boon.
The knowledge of CPR up high on Everest is crucial as it could save the lives of fellow team members or other climbing members where there is no immediate assistance.
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Yen Kai (left) and E-Fung in the store
tent sorting out the gear |
At about 11am, the team's sherpas returned to base camp after having ferried loads to Camp 1 in the early hours of the morning, an amazing turn-around time of six hours! They confirmed establishing Camp 1 with the necessary supplies such as tents, sleeping bags, food, and cooking facilities. Some have also pushed on to open the route to Camp 2. They reported stable weather conditions up on Everest, and the often-dreaded icefall have been firmly set up with ladders and fixed ropes to ensure a safe ascent.
The team will set off for Camp 1 on 10 April if the weather permits, and after Camp 2 has been fully established.
Logistic issues
Since reaching Everest Base Camp on 3 April, my logistics co-in-charge, Yen Kai and I have been busy sorting out the logistics.
The amount of gear needed for a climb for Everest is tremendous, and unimaginable for most people. From ice axes and crampons to waterproof shells and repair kits, each item is catalogued and sufficient quantities are ensured for all members, including spares.
Faced with a mountain of equipment, we found it a challenge to ensure we have what is needed to maximize safety without compromising on efficient movement on the mountains. Many hours were spent fine-tuning the gear list, adding and deleting with every improved system.
Extra logistics and precautions are needed for Everest, because there are more pre-established camps in the world's highest peak. For example, Everest has four camps up to the summit, and each needs to be equipped with the same number of tents, cooking facilities, sleeping bags, food, gas canisters and many more. In all, we need more than 25 tents, and the same number of stoves and cooking pots.
Another big logistical problem is the oxygen tanks. Eight sherpas will be climbing with us on the final summit bid, using oxygen to prepare for emergency situations. With the five of us using oxygen, the total number of oxygen tanks needed for one summit bid is 40 tanks, each weighing 8kg. The weight for just oxygen alone, up to the death zone is more than 300kg.
With all this support, we have more than a tonne of logistics. A big storage tent, which is about the size of a small bus, has been allocated for this use and kept under lock and key.
Even with almost everything in place, Yen Kai and I continue to discuss gear arrangements with our sherpas. With their help, I am able to sleep better at night.
Now, there is only the weather on Everest that we are concerned about, as well as the general well being of the climbing members.
Everest Base Camp, 7 April 2005:
We woke up to another good weather day at EBC. By 7am, the sun was already shining brightly in a cloudless sky. The Puja, an important traditional ceremony, typical to all teams climbing in Nepal was soon to begin.
This was a significant event that would mark the start of our expedition, and everyone involved, from climbers and cooks, sherpas and sirdas, were there. Prayer offerings and blessings, made by a lama who was engaged specially for the occasion, were offered to appease the mountain gods. It is known to the sherpas that no climbing should begin without a puja being conducted.
We sat in front of a metre-high stone-piled altar with Juniper branches burning furiously beside it. The lama chanted his way for permission and safety of the team.
Climbing gear, food and drinks to be blessed were also placed around the altar. Occasionally, we threw uncooked rice skywards. The three-hour preceedings ended with everyone giving blessings by painting each other's faces with flour. Finally, a flagpole with country flags was erected and tied down with prayer flags.
With this elaborate ceremony, the NUS team looks forward to a safe climb.
Everest Base Camp, 6 April 2005:
The four days at Everest Base Camp seem much longer. Everyone is impatient to get up the mountains but that can't happen until after the puja -- the ceremony conducted by lamas among the sherpas to appease the mountain gods. Thankfully that is scheduled to happen tomorrow.
Meanwhile, we have been making good use of the time sorting the gear and
high-altitude food that has to be sent up to Camps 1 and 2. The comms system
took a while to smoothen out. Everyone was given a briefing of the equipment
today. The more fastidious among us have also been making their tents and the
immediate surrounds more comfortable. A flag pole is being erected for the
Singapore and NUS flags.
Yesterday, we met cheery sirdar Karmi who introduced us to our climbing sherpas. This is important as each climber will be working closely with his assigned
sherpa. A quick count revealed that the eight had 18 Everest summits
among them. Impressive!
Just because we're out in the wilderness, there is no reason to give up the little
enjoyments of life. After-dinner entertainment consists of a movie, such as
Spiderman 2 and Team America. Helps to keep the spirits up.
The weather has been kind these past 2 days, with warm sunshine and windless
conditions -- perfect for showers and laundry. Let's hope it lasts...
Everest Base Camp, 4 April 2005:
Everest BC sits on the Khumbu Glacier. Literally. Dig just centimetres below the sandy ground and you see solid ice. Our camp is on high ground, with the dining and kitchen tents a few metres below. All around us are large boulders, loose rocks and slippery sandy slopes.The sherpas however have managed to make it quite comfortable, even using flat rocks to create steps to the dining tent for ease of movement.
The team has been busy sorting out gear and high-altitude food, organising the dining tent, and setting up the communications equipment. The meals from our chief cook Pemba has been a marked improvement over the fare served in the last two weeks. That, plus all the morale food we brought with us, have given the guys a tremendous appetite.
The weather has been quite erratic, high winds alternating with warm sunshine. Overnight temperature in the tent can drop to as low as -10C. We have begun tracking the weather reports, hoping to see a pattern that will allow us to make fairly certain predictions of the days ahead.
Everest Base Camp, 3 April 2005:
A relief for all to arrive finally at Everest Base Camp (5,300m).
Gorak Shep, 2 April 2005:
Arrived at Gorak Shep (5,130m). En route, met an all-women Iranian Everest team! From camp, we trekked up to Kala Patthar (5,545m) for best view of Everest.
Lobuche, 1 April 2005:
Four hours on foot to Lobuche (4,900m) for one night. On the way was a morrain ridge with many chortan in memory of climbers and sherpas who had perished.
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